bedroom wall decor hobby lobby
hi, i'm sarah with the hobby lobby creativestudio! welcome back to our sew this bedroom series!today we are going to show you how to make a gorgeous, show-stopping headboard. first, you'll need to gather your supplies.just click on the printable link for a full list of what you'll need to make a headboardlike this one. to start, you'll need to cut your backer intothe shape you want for your headboard. i'm using plywood, but you could also use mdf,a heavy foamboard or another similar material, as long as it is sturdy and flat. i've cut mine to fit a full size bed, so ifyou're making a different size be sure to
adjust your fabric and foam sizes accordingly.to start off, i want to go ahead and take the overall measurements of my headboard soi know how much fabric, batting and foam i need to purchase. keep in mind your foam will be an inch smalleron the top three sides than your backer but you will need to add an extra 6 to 8 inchesof fabric and batting around all edges so you have plenty to wrap around the foam andbacker and staple in place on the backside. now, roll out the foam and lay your headboardbacker on top. trace around the headboard shape with a marker. you'll notice this piece of foam isn't quitetall enough to cover the entire headboard,
so i just trimmed off the excess, slid itback under the top, then continued tracing to complete the shape of the headboard.in order for the fabric to wrap and lay smoothly around the edges, i will actually be cuttingthe foam so it is an inch smaller than the backer.to do that, measure in an inch on both sides and just connect the tick marks to createa solid line. you don't need to worry about trimming thebottom edge because that part will be hidden behind the bed.because the curves along the top edge are a bit trickier, use a ruler or a seam gaugeto measure in one inch and make tick marks, following the curves as you go.i've connected all the tick marks, making
a solid line that will be easy to follow asi cut the foam. now we're ready to cut out the shape!using fabric scissors, cut the foam along the lines you just made that are 1" in fromthe original tracing. now, we'll use spray adhesive to attach thefoam to the backer. i've laid down a piece of plastic to workon for this part. make sure you follow any safety precautions listed on the can as well.lay the backer down flat, and place the foam on top. now remember, when you place the foam backon the backer you want to have 1" of backer showing on the top as well as both the leftand right edges.
lift up an edge of the foam and spray adhesivebetween the backer and the foam. press the foam back into place. move to another area, lift, spray, and pressback into place until you have all the foam secured to the backer. once all your foam is secure it's time toadd a layer of batting to provide a smooth surface for the fabric to drape over. i'm using a queen size piece of batting withextra loft. i've folded the batting in half, increasingthe thickness even more. lay the batting out flat, and place the backer,foam side down, on top of the batting.
trim the batting down so there is about 6"to 8" left around the perimeter of the headboard. now you'll staple the batting to the backsideof the headboard. start in the middle of the bottom edge. pullthe batting around to the back side and secure it with a staple. continue wrapping and stapling the battingalong the rest of the bottom edge. just a side note…it's also a good idea tokeep a small hammer nearby to finish securing any staples that might not go completely intothe wood. now when you get to a corner, you're justgoing to trim off the eccess batting so you can fold the corners nice and neat, similarto how you would wrap the corners of a present.
to do this you will trim each of the cornersin a "j" shape. the left side will look like a backwards j and the right side will mirrorthat cut and will look like a normal j. let's start at the left, bottom corner. makethat backwards j cut in your batting. now, take the batting on this outside edge andfold it over, slightly tucking in the bottom edge. fold under and staple along the foldededge to secure. go ahead and trim the right corner, mirroringthe cut we made on our left corner. then, just fold your batting around and staple intoplace, just like before. now, you're ready staple your way up the twosides. be sure to pull the batting evenly as you go.
when you get to a corner this time, go aheadand trim in that "j" shape like you did before but this time, don't staple the fold in placejust yet. it's very important at this point to makesure there is little to no slack, lumps, or wrinkles in the batting. once you have it all smooth and looking good,we will start working on the top edge! with your headboard standing upright, pullthe batting at the center of the top edge up and around to the back side, just enoughto pull out any wrinkles then staple in place. now, if you have a curve-shaped headboardlike mine, it can get a little tricky to get the batting to pull around and into the curvesjust right.
to help with this, we are going to createa series of cuts in the back side of the batting along the curves.the cuts you make will depend on the shape of your headboard, but a good rule of thumbis to make at least three strips for each inward curve.you can always make more if needed to make the batting lie smoother.you'll want to be careful when tugging on these batting strips. if you pull too hardthey could rip right off. you may have to play with these strips a bit.try pulling in different directions, until it lays how you want, but let me show youthe basic idea of what to do. start by pulling the strips so they lay smoothalong the curve and secure them with a staple.
when you get to an inward curve, you'll wantto start by pulling the outer strips away from the center and staple them into place. you may need to add extra staples, or evenstaple a tad closer to the edge for this part. then complete the curve by pulling the centerstrip directly over the middle and secure in place.just take the surves one at a time, securing the strips in place before moving on to thenext. the most important thing is that you achieve nice, smooth edges with no visiblebunching from the front. after you finish stapling along the top edge,trim off any excess batting. be sure not to cut too close to the staples so they maintainthe best grip to hold the batting in place.
once you get the batting all secured, we'refinally ready to add our fabric! using a heavy upholstery fabric like thisone is best because it helps hide any small imperfections that may be in your batting. if you decide to use a lighter-weight fabric,it's a good idea to add a layer of muslin between the batting and your finishing fabricto add some weight and help smooth everything out.now, i've already cut my fabric about 6 or 8 inches larger then my backer size so i haveplenty to wrap around the back side and staple. this fabric isn't wide enough off the boltto cover the width of my headboard so i've sewn a couple of pieces together to make itfit.
keep in mind that if your fabric has a repeatingpattern, you'll need to buy enough so the pattern lines up all the way across the headboard.to line up and center your fabric design where you want it, stand your headboard up and casuallydrape it over the top, making sure you've left enough fabric to wrap around the bottomedge as well. once you get the fabric where you like it,reach around a put a quick staple or two in the top center of the back side to hold itin place. now lay everything face down. make sure thefabric is pulled taut against the top staples, and is lying smooth under the headboard. so, because we know our headboard is 60.5inches wide, we want to find our center at
30.25 inches and mark it so we can line ourfabric up centered. now, find the center of your fabric designon this bottom edge and pull it taut. fold it up, fold the raw edge under and stapleit in place. i like to fold the raw edge under just soit looks a little cleaner. continue pulling, folding, and stapling thefabric along the bottom edge, making sure the fabric design is lining up correctly,all the way across. be sure to pull the fabric taut as you stapleto keep everything smooth. when you get to the corner, cut the backwards'j' shape as before, fold the fabric over, and staple to secure.
repeat this for the opposite bottom corner.now you'll do the sides. the process is the same as you did with the batting, just makesure the fabric design stays lined up with the edge all the way up.cut the j's in the corners when you get to them but don't fold and staple yet. okay, we're ready for the top!first, trim the fabric so you have about 6" of overhang from the edge, following the curvedshape. at this point i like to stand the headboardup so i can keep an eye on the pattern on the front as i'm stapling to make sure it'sstaying straight. starting in the top middle, working out oneside at a time, repeat the same technique
you did with the batting, making your cutsin the fabric along the curve. so, continue working a little at a time, cutting,pulling and manipulating the strips so the fabric lays right along the curves. then staplethem into place. once it's all pulled tight and stapled, trimoff any excess fabric. and you're done! we hung our headboard directlyon the wall using a french cleat from our framing department. well guys, that's all for today! be sure tocheck out the other videos in our sew this bedroom series for other ideas on ways tocreate a designer bedroom yourself! bye and i'll see you next time at the hobbylobby creative studio.